We start the foundation. Thrive helps you turn it into a great relationship.

Free with every Stony Lonesome pup

Guided Exploration

New sights, sounds, experiences, steady guidance, and recovery

The Big Idea

As always, the main goal of anything with your dog is building his trust in you, your relationship, and his skills at navigating his world.

For weeks 11 & 12,  your puppy has growing confidence in his home base and in your protection, so his world can open a little more.

Rushing is mistake #1. Don’t rush. Some pups may want to dive into the deep end and never look back, but others may prefer to mosey a bit more on their journey into 21st century life. This chapter is written more for the mosey-ers, but as always, let your pup set the pace. Don't push. German Shepherds can often move faster in general, but your pup may feel small and unsure one moment, then eager to take on the world the next.

By continuing to develop your patience, your planning of small successes, and most importantly your ability to read your puppy, you can spend the next two weeks helping him succeed at ever larger experiences. And always work on reading your pup.

Think guided exploration: new sights, new sounds, new surfaces, new movement, and new people and dogs all in new places. Introduce novelty slowly enough to avoid overwhelm but fast enough to challenge and maintain interest. Stack up small wins, and reward check-ins and make space for recovery. You’re helping him grow into the best version of himself!

Final note – endless variety in puppies and opportunities at this age make some of these chapters long. Just find a couple of things that look fun and appropriate to get you going in the right direction, bonding, sorting out who makes the rules (you do), and how fun life can be with a great owner who’s learning all the time!

~ ~ ~

Pooh: Lots of people talk to animals.

Owl: Maybe, but . . . not very many listen, though.

Pooh: That’s the problem.

-- Benjamin Hoff, “The Tao of Poo”, with a hat tip to Suzanne Clothier

~ ~ ~

Focus: Start Meeting the World

Maintain Safe Distances - Start farther away than you think you need to

For some puppies, 50 feet away from activity may be a perfect place to start. Read and work with the pup in front of you. Move closer if your pup appears stays relaxed.

You are looking for the distance where your puppy can notice something new and still think. Closer may push them into just reacting, which is the opposite of what you want.

Good signs:

• soft body and soft tail
• curious eyes
• able to take treats
• able to ignore / look away
• will check back in with you
• interested but not frantic
• watching without getting caught up

If the puppy stiffens, stares hard, growls, barks, lunges, scrambles, or tries to hide, you are probably too close or stayed too long.

Move away. Make it easier. Try again another day.

Good Guided Exploration Options (Mild Challenge vs Flooding)

Choose one or two at a time. One or two that fit your schedule will be a rousing success. You don’t have to do everything. Mild challenge means the puppy is able to pause and think instead of just reacting.

Some puppies will want to rush right in, others may choose to observe a bit longer. A great tactic is to interest your dog in something so it learns to ignore the scary thing that is going on. With treats or chatter or feigned excitement about places to sniff, etc. you can walk back and forth and get your pup to ignore the scary thing. Your energy and excitement will win the day.

• people and dog watching at the right distance near a park or a big box store or a pet store, in your arms or on a leash.
• a park edge to sniff and ignore activity
• watching bicycles, carts, strollers, or children from far enough away, for example a playground with kids, a school or ballfield
• a big-box store entrance. We put young pups in a cart (on a folded towel) and walk around near a store entrance. We have a lot of experience with keeping people & pup visits positive, and we’re doing this, protectively, from six or seven weeks on. At the right time and with the right puppy, this can be a great place for a little attention and a lot of observation – use your judgement and read your pup! You will run into people who have dogs at home, so be sure to be stay on your shot schedule.
• Sniff walks build confidence. If the area isn’t familiar I’d suggest a walking stick to keep any roaming dogs well-mannered.
• an undiscovered sidewalk with wildlife or pet smells
• watching from a quiet porch, yours or a friend’s (one owner sat on her porch every afternoon and watched the schoolchildren get off the bus)
• a short visit to a calm, safe home
• a new surface, such as gravel, mulch, rubber matting, concrete, or a low ramp
• a little frustration followed by success
• a short recall away from something mildly interesting

Simply watching can still be the win.

Do not confuse “successful socialization” with meeting everything. For many puppies, successful socialization means learning to ignore. They notice something new, stay thoughtful, and check in with the person they trust. Stony Lonesome GSD works with pups so they connect deeply with people. Expect and reward check ins – be a part of your dog’s evaluation process. When we’re out our adults frequently check with us to see our response to events.

Dragging or forcing a puppy that’s not ready for an experience will reduce confidence. Patiently letting the pup decide to engage with well-selected novelty will increase confidence.

We want the puppy to end by feeling victorious: I saw. I tried. I conquered. I’m always safe around my person.

That is how confidence grows.

What to Avoid

• trying to meet too many people
• random dog greetings or dog parks (some dogs are jerks)
• too much of a crowded pet store all at once, though distraction with treats while walking through chaos can produce amazing results quickly. Read your puppy!!
• letting strangers rush the puppy (can look a little like “Walking Dead” to a puppy)
• letting children overwhelm the puppy (not all children have good manners with puppies)
• pushing closer after the puppy stiffens
• staying too long (quit while things are going well)
• dragging the puppy across new surfaces (what we have here is a failure to communicate)
• correcting fear instead of helping recovery (ditto)
• comforting without removing enough of the stressor
• and obviously barking, lunging, nipping, or frantic behavior means things are going in the wrong direction. Abort and redirect to get the pup’s mind on happy, safe things.

Remember: repeated practice teaches, even those things you don’t want taught. We’re looking for small successes.

New Sounds

Introduce new sounds thoughtfully.

Good examples:

• traffic from a distance
• kids playing, mowing, highway noises, etc from whatever distance seems right
• household noises - a vacuum, dishwasher, washing machine, power tools, etc
• clanging dishes
• recordings of thunderstorms, construction, kids at a playground, etc at low volume

Your goal is for the pup to be aware of the sounds but not be stressed. If your puppy startles, watch how and how quickly it recovers. Move away/turn down the volume if appropriate. Don’t comfort unless terrified, best if you can just use distraction.

New Surfaces

New surfaces seem like a small thing to us (especially with our shoes on), but they require a lot of confidence from a puppy, and can really build confidence.

But engaging has to be the pup's choice. Pushing or dragging your pup into an experience is not going to get you what you want.

Try:

• gravel
• mulch
• wet grass
• concrete
• slick but safe flooring
• rubber matting
• a low wobble surface
• a shallow step
• a stable ramp
• a cardboard box or low platform

Let your puppy notice, investigate, and choose.

Be patient. Encourage lightly. Celebrate even small attempts.

A puppy who thinks through new surfaces/objects is learning the process of engaging with novelty. This is major because the canine species is naturally cautious about novelty.

Helping them learn: “When I see something new I think about it, interact with it, and have fun with it” shapes a fun dog!

Check Ins

Your puppy “Checking In” with you is a highly coveted trait.

Checking In means the puppy, when making a decision, will glance at your eyes to read you. He is involving your input in his decision making. The puppy sees you as a reliable guide, and values what you think or what you want.

This is one of the main pillars of shaping a great dog. When your puppy makes eye contact, reward emphatically however you can - vocal praise, treats, etc. You want more of this!

Administration

•Recommended resources: SuzanneClothier.com. Loads of excellent resources and a blog. Suzanne is the autor of "Bones Would Rain from the Sky: Deepening Our Relationships with Dogs". This amazing book helps us think about dogs much more clearly. Like most profound books, once you read it, it all seems so obvious.

•Continue car safety with appropriate restraint.​
• Confirm microchip registration information.
• Follow the vaccination schedule you’ve worked out with your vet.
• Ask your vet what places are appropriate before full vaccination.
• Ask your vet about Leptospirosis and Blue-Green Algae if your puppy will be around outdoor water.
• We suggest a standard leash. A retractable leash can wind up reducing your control.
• Nails shouldn’t click on the floor/ground, except maybe lightly. If you have questions about clipping please ask us.

Recall

Keep recall joyful!

Get the odds on your side. Call your puppy when you can make it work. Praise, move, celebrate, sometimes treat, and either release the puppy back to what he was doing or make his return so exciting that he doesn’t care you just interrupted his playtime.

The lesson is still: Coming back to my person works.

As distractions increase, you may need to make recall easier again. Shorten the distance. More excitement. Better timing. Less competition from the world. You can also practice recall while your puppy is on a leash. Different leash lengths can be useful. We avoid retractable leashes, especially for a GSD. See Administration and Suggestions below.

Mouth Control And Tug

Tug well. Use tug to build connection and control during what can be intense physical competition. Little breaks to calm things down and praise the pup builds emotional self-control.

Teeth should never touch you or your clothes during any play. Contact us if this is a problem.

Biting toys is the game. Biting people ends the game.

Leash Familiarity

Remember that the leash is for connection, not for dragging. It’s mostly a team thing, with you navigating to avoid problems so the pup enjoys the walk and learns that it’s ok for you to sometimes exercise your veto. Stephen Covey used the image of a bank account. When you regularly make deposits into your puppy’s “account” with fun, success, and trust, you can make occasional withdrawals, like vetoing a dead possum as a chew toy.

Sometimes let your puppy investigate. Other times, ask him to move with you on a loose leash because you’re interesting and fun to be with. Keep the leash light and the communication clear. On a sniff walk (usually non-aerobic) we let our dogs stop and sniff for 3-5 seconds, and then get things moving again with a bright “let’s go!” Really important sniffs may deserve a little longer – the art of give & take.

The puppy should be learning “I can explore, but we’re together.”

Handling

Continue calm handling: paws, mouth, ears, body, brushing, and quiet touch. Loosen collar as needed.

Your puppy is growing quickly. Now is the time to keep teaching him that human hands are safe, pleasant, and trustworthy. Practice when things are calm.

Puppy Skills/Habits

Look for opportunities for your puppy to practice these building-block skills

Notice

Your puppy should be allowed to notice the world.

Do not rush him past everything. Let him look and ponder – this leads to good judgement.

Choose

Offer your puppy safe choices. The act of choosing matures, especially when there are consequences - small ones for small dogs.

He may choose to move closer. He may choose to hang back. He may choose to sniff. He may choose to procrastinate. He may choose to race in.

Observe, but be careful interpreting his choices – he is processing all kinds of information that would surprise you.

Recover

Recovery is one of the most important skills in Thrive.

A puppy may startle. He may hesitate. He may back up. He may look unsure.

With good recovery, this is an opportunity to build his confidence.

Help recovery by making the situation easier:
• increase distance
• lower the intensity
• use your voice
• move your body
• offer an easier version
• give him a small win
• leave before he falls apart

Recovery builds resilience when the challenge is at his level and the puppy succeeds.

Re-engage

After your puppy notices something new or recovers from something surprising, look for re-engagement. Re-engagement may take different forms.

Does he look back at you?

Can he take a step with you?

Can he sniff again?

Can he play?

Can he respond to praise?

Can he choose to investigate again?

That return to connection matters.

The goal is not a puppy who never notices pressure. The goal is a puppy who can notice, recover, and come back into relationship.

Ignoring Distractions

Ignoring distractions is a great response. This puts the dog in charge of deciding what it will pay attention to and what it will ignore.

By truly ignoring a distraction a dog is declaring it not worthy of attention, at least right now. That’s mastery.

Owner Skills/Habits

Owner Judgment

This is the major skill for this chapter. Your job is to stack small wins.

Don’t get careless when things have been going well. Success can disappear quickly when a young puppy gets tired, overstimulated, hungry, or pressured.

Leaving while the puppy is still successful is smart training.

Read the Puppy - Eagle Eyes

Watch the puppy’s direction of energy.
Is his energy moving toward the world in a relaxed, open way?
Or is his energy moving away, shrinking, stiffening, guarding, or getting frantic?
Useful signs:
Toward / relaxed / open
• loose body
• soft mouth
• normal movement
• curious sniffing
• looking and looking away
• checking back in
• willing to move with you
Away / stressed / guardy
• stiff body
• hard stare
• closed mouth
• leaning forward and loading up
• tucked tail
• trying to hide
• scrambling
• frantic movement
• barking or growling
• unable to take treats
• unable to look away
Do not wait for a full explosion. Read the early signs.

The Puppy Anxiety Meter

By holding your puppy with your wrist between his forearms, your pup can apply more or less pressure to your arm. Zero pressure means completely relaxed, sometimes pressure means “please keep holding and petting me”, and a pressure increase during potentially stressful conditions shows anxiety. Support the pup with one arm/hand, and lay the other arm against their torso so you can scratch their neck or ear.

Be aware of anxiety as you’re out & about:
• Does the puppy soften into you? (relaxed)
• Does he look around with interest?
• Does he tighten his grip on your wrist? (possible anxiety)
• Do his eyes change?
• Does he stop moving his head normally?
• Does he stare hard?
• Does he try to climb into you or away from something?
• BTW, sometimes a pup will be wriggling around to get down and go potty. Better to try to read than to make assumptions.

If the pressure increases and concern shows in his eyes, believe him.

Move away. Chatter to him. Bounce him lightly. Make eye contact. Help him feel that you have things under control. Things become less scary when your puppy sees you calm and ignoring them.

The lesson is: My person can read me. My person will not leave me alone with something too big.

That kind of protection builds confidence.

Protect Without Drama

Protection does not have to be dramatic.

Sometimes protection is simply:
• stepping between your puppy and a person
• turning and walking away
• increasing distance
• saying, “No thanks, we’re just watching”
• picking the puppy up
• ending the outing
• giving the puppy a simpler version

Your puppy should not have to bark, nip, scramble, or panic to get your help.

Encourage Wisely

Encouragement should invite, not pressure.

Use a happy voice. Move your body. Make the next step easier. Celebrate effort.

Do not cheerlead a puppy into something he is not ready to handle. Do not drag him. Do not make him “face it” just because you know the thing is safe.

The puppy does not only need the thing to be safe – he needs to make the decision to engage.

Reinforce What Matters

Reinforce the behaviors you want to grow.

Reward:
• check-ins
• soft watching
• choosing to move with you
• recovery after surprise
• calm investigation
• returning to you
• choosing the toy instead of skin
• waiting briefly before access (saying “Please”)
• trying again after hesitation, 5 minutes later or tomorrow

Reinforcement is not only food. It can be praise, movement, distance, release, play, touch, or access to something the puppy wants.

Be intentional. What you reward, sometimes even what you pay attention to,  grows.

This Week’s Reminder 

The goal is not to make the world bigger as fast as possible and frighten your puppy. Good swimmers aren't usually the ones who were "taught" by being thrown off the end of a dock.

The goal to help your puppy set the pace and succeed at meeting more and more of the world, and so build his trust and your relationship.